43 Rumors

The reason most people buy such extreme aperture lens is for that super thin depth of field, so they they shoot bokeh-rich photos with it. Under normal circumstances, f4-f8 is the best aperture range for 4/3 and m4/3 in term of IQ. Depend on what type of photos you do, you may need different aperture range (landscape shooters usually shoot from f8 and smaller and macro people shoot f2 and larger for example). Huge aperture like f0.95 is mostly for portrait or macro only. If you shoot outdoor, you’ll have to stop it down to get the photo sharp and in focus. There is no reason why you can’t use aperture against such general rule. I’ve shot macro with f11 and grand landscape with f2.8 (and probably need even shallow DoP for that instance), but they’re exception to the rule.

You get a sports car, you’re going to want to see how fast it’ll go. Doesn’t mean that’s the only way you’ll ever drive it. It’s a pretty extreme lens, and everybody is interested to see how far it can be pushed, both in aperture and minimum focusing distance. But it’s got an aperture ring for a reason – if you use it, this lens gives you *more* options, not fewer.

I agree there are lots of inexpensive ways to get a crazy shallow depth of field… But not as many in the 25mm range. Most of the the “need for speed” lenses so far were made for full-frame. I’ve had a lot of fun with my Canon FD 50mm f/1.2. But shooting indoors at an effective focal length of 100mm can feel just as constricting as never changing your aperture.